Base Assembly

I have decided to make all my lower pieces dimensional 3" W by 3" D. I started with ripping my 4x4's I made down to just about 3-1/16" width.

I then removed a 1/32" on each side with my jointer to smooth the surface. The width is critical to match the 

depth.

Once I processed all my stock I then make a layout to determine which surface I want as the face to my legs and cross members. I try to match color, graining, and some characteristic, like knots, to get the overall effect I want. I also use this to determine spacing, think about how I am going to use fasteners, if I will conceal or expose them, how much over hang do I want for the table top, how can I disassembled to make moving easier,

Tips: Your eyes are the best tools you have whether it's for alignment, design or judgement. Use them and protect them, always!

Tip: Taking the time to setup jigs will make you time and your finished product worth it! I setup this drilling station for the 4 angled braces on each leg. I tapped them first to later use a 3/8" drill bit later. the reason is for wood plugs to conceal these holes since these will not be needed to disassemble later.

Next will be finishing and sanding preparations plus the cross member installation.
Other things to consider: table extensions system, table extension wings, overall table height (30"), fasteners

Table Foot Design

Below are the tools that you'll need to complete this part. (It's easier than you think!)

Miter Saw

Circular Saw

Coping Saw

Small Hand Saw

Wood Rasp

Orbital Sander

Pencil

Speed Square

Here is the design that I decided to go with for my table foot. I made a template out of some scrap plywood so that I can trace and flip to all 4 corners (front and back sides) of my legs. Start by tracing your template on one side. Use the speed square to draw a matching reference line across the top. Then trace the template on the opposite side.

Now you can move to removing excess material with the miter saw. I started with a 45 degree cut followed by a 22.5 degree cut. I then use my speed square and circular saw to cut a series of slots at the top of my design and to make room for the coping saw blade. See below.

I used the coping saw to knock off the top piece of bulk material, as shown from above and below pictures.

Once that was complete, I used an orbital sander with 80 grit sand paper to gently remove the remaining material to the pencil line. Making sure that both sides match.

And this is the final product!

Next is the base fit-up and assembly. 

Table Top

The table top requires 5 boards at 8" wide by 70" long. I cut mine a little longer at 71" just so I can flush up the ends at a later time.
Tips: The 2 boards on the outside edges I left a little wider than 8" due to shrinkage when gluing and clamping. About an extra 1/8" for each side. I did achieve a perfect 40" width that was desired.



I lined up all the boards and clamped them lightly to mark the dowel holes across all boards at 10" apart. I purchased a dowel drill jig to help with alignment and marked the depth of the hole plus the jig on the drill bit.

After drilling the dowel holes I made a dry fit to check everything. I did find that I did not clean out 2 hole so the boards did not squeeze together tightly. Once everything was fitted and all the clamps and dowels are where I needed them, it's time to glue!
Tips: Test fit and measure everything. Make a dry run of clamping placement and pressure; I have 5 bar clamps on the top and 5 on the bottom. Apply clamps at joints on each of the ends of the table top to ensure alignment and flatness; 4 joints so an extra 8 C-clamps. Don't forget to use dunage between your work piece and the clamps for protection.

With yellow carpenters glue you should have about a 5 minute working time so you need to move quickly to apply and spread your glue. I let my table top sit in the clamps to dry for 24 hours.

Next is the base assembly. 

Material Processing

So I picked up about 90% of the material I need for this project. As I mentioned before the 4x4s in Douglas Fir (untreated) don't exist in my area so I made my own (below). It's nice to have lots of clamps, lots of glue, and do them all at once. I started with 2x8's and glued them together. Then I ripped them in half with the table saw and that is what you see here. I then cut to the lengths I needed according to my cut list (with some extra for length for tight joints).

When you get a gluing surface with tight clamps you should end up with a joint that looks like this. Almost invisible. 

Below, on the left is my table top material, cut to length, and my base material cut to length on the right. Also, I like to keep my material in order. The table top material to the far left is my unprocessed stock and next to it is the processed material. I group my base materials to the far right and separate it by legs 1 & 2.

Helpful hints: Number the end of your pieces according to your drawings so you know where they go when you assembly them. Never put your material on the floor. You risk picking up stones and dirt in your material. Use dunage under your material to store it.